Vatican was my neighborhood

50 years ago and now

When I lived next to Borgo Pio and the Vatican (mid-1960s to 1980s) the Metro was not yet built so we walked everywhere, crossing the Tiber on the beautiful bridge in front of Castle Sant’Angelo. The bells of St. Peter’s could be heard several times a day, and living so close allowed me to spend many weekends as a volunteer guide for Holy Year 1975.

With Notre Dame students in the portico of St. Peter’s Basilica, (NDI Yearbook 1976)

(note the plastic yellow “Jubileum” armband)

A nostalgic walk through the old neighborhood last month brought back lots of memories and some comparisons. How has the neighborhood changed? for better or worse ? From the moment I emerged from the Ottaviano metro station change was palpable - the once busy shopping area was now “pedestrians only “ .

school kids with Vatican scarves on Via Ottaviano after a Wednesday papal audience

Being a Wednesday the security gates beneath Bernini’s colonnade were still in place and manned by guards. Those who wanted to enter the piazza had to do the whole airport thing: line up, remove jackets and coats, metal detector scan, backpacks and bags opened - not fun on such a bitterly cold day.

Heading for Borgo Pio I crossed the small Piazza Citta’ Leonina where the busses used to stop, now crowded with tables and cars bearing CD (Corpo Diplomatico) and SCV (Stato Citta Vaticano ) plates. When I lived nearby this is where the dry cleaner and cobbler had shops, where we bought milk and bread and often ate dinner at one of the many traditional inexpensive trattorie. During the Renaissance Bramante and super-star Michelangelo worked on numerous Vatican commissions and lived nearby.

Now the cobblestones are crowded with tables catering to hungry tourists. I was glad to see my friend’s hotel with a friendly dog lounging in front. The best place for Vatican souvenirs -Comandini- was still there although their inexpensive postcards have disappeared, replaced by garish statues, gilded chalices and priestly garments.

The secret passage known as “ Il Passetto” runs parallell to Borgo Pio along the top of the ancient wall which links the Vatican palazzi with Castle Sant’Angelo fortress. For more history (and how to visit) see the underlined link. At the end of Borgo Pio you will find the many buildings that now make up the university where I attended classes and earned a dottorato -LUMSA.

Il Passetto runs atop this brick wall. On the right are embassies to the Holy See

Nearby in the new Piazza Pia, a temporary building houses the volunteers’ office where groups of pilgrims congregate before beginning the walk down the Via della Conciliazione to the Basilica. Everything you need to know about the Jubilee/Holy Year can be found on their official site. Click on the link

After barely a month into the Jubilee celebrations, the English and Italian language brochures with songs and prayers have already run out and more are being printed. Piazza Pia boasts a popular new fountain which doubles as a seating area and a substitute for the Trevi fountain -for tossing coins and making wishes!

The furry nutria who live on the banks of the Tiber have also discovered it and can be seen scampering around the new fountain and piazza when the sun goes down- click on the link to discover more.

I asked some substack friends living in Rome for places they can recommend in my old neighborhoods. Back in the 70s our favorite for an evening meal on Borgo Pio was Da Roberto - Al Passetto which has been serving traditional Roman food since 1962.

a favorite with the Vatican clergy -Da Roberto, Borgo Pio

-Laura Itzkowitz’s pick is “Canova Tadolini on Via Babuino where you can enjoy an espresso surrounded by beautiful statues” .

- Eric Beall of Life lived Italian “ my favorite is on Via del Falco, off Borgo Pio, Hostaria Da Benito e Gilberto, a classic Roman spot for fish “ .

-Gillian Longworth McGuire who now discovers special places in Venice, “My favorite forno near Vatican is Mosca on Via Candia”.

I enjoyed my mid-morning snack near Piazza di Spagna at the recently opened Gianfornaio on Via S. Sebastianello, across from the new Trinity College campus . Other Gianfornaio are at Ponte Milvio and on Via Dei Gracchi near the Vatican .

What’s your favorite quick snack while visiting Rome?

A Roman staple: a slice of pizza al taglio and cappuccino near Piazza di Spagna

Then : official poster of 1975 Jubilee Holy Year, Dinner with English Language Service volunteers and directors, 1975

Now: the border between Italy and Vatican City State and the newly cleaned colonnade

For more on Holy Year and Vatican check past articles in the Archives and share with friends coming to Italy this year.