The two faces of Catania-Part 1
historic elegance and culinary chaos
Direct flights from New York to Catania have just been inaugurated, making it much easier for North Americans to visit this iconic Sicilian city steeped in history and overshadowed by a volcano.
The best way to arrive is by sea, as I did, aboard a small, luxury ship of the Azamara company where I have been Enrichment and Destination speaker for the past 18 years. Having been to Catania years ago I was well aware of how chaotic it could be, so I wanted to limit my short visit to the historic Biscari Palazzo located only a five minute walk from the port where our ship was docked.
Passing by the archeological digs in Piazza Cardinale Pappalardo where medieval ceramics dating from the Aragon period (12-14th centuries) have been found, I headed for Palazzo Biscari’s majestic entrance courtyard and its double stairway where owner, Dott. Ruggero Moncada was waiting for me.
An ancestor, Ignazio Paterno’ Castello, Prince of Biscari, constructed the palazzo after one of the many eruptions of Mount Etna which continuously altered the town and port over the centuries.
He also created a private museum full of mosaics, Roman statuary, coins and cameos admired by Goethe and Patrick Brydon, during their visits to Catania in the 1700s. In 1932 the contents of this museum were donated to the city’s museum located in Castello Ursino.
Visiting this elegant noble palazzo was like stepping onto a film set for “Il Gattopardo” the classic novel about life in Risorgimento Sicily by Tomasi di Lampedusa.
Dr. Moncado is a modern version of the main character- Principe Fabrizio Salina-played by Burt Lancaster in the 1963 film and in the new Netflix series by Kim Rossi Stuart.
Upkeep on the palazzo includes using protective carpeting (very heavy to roll up ) on the original inlaid wooden floors
As we walked through the sumptuous saloni, Moncada pointed out ancestral portraits and told me of VIP visitors who enjoyed concerts and other events in these rooms during the past centuries. See the palazzo’s website for more about its history and present use as a venue for parties and weddings.
palazzo interiors -the ballroom, inlaid wood panels, floating Baroque stairway, marble bath
Taking a short cut through a garage and the private apartments, we arrived to the courtyard areas where bougainvillea and palms thrive.
Reading recommendations for Sicily: my beat up copy from 1963, what Sicily was like in 1860
Irish travel writer Brydone traveled to Sicily and Malta in 1770. Both books are available in English.
Coming Next week: Catania’s fish market, Duomo, main piazza, shopping. Photos and text copyright ©2025 Mary Jane Cryan-do not use without permission
You're so right-- it's absolutely straight from Gattopardo. Enchanting post!
Friends have just returned from Sicily. They spent a few nights in Catania and absolutely loved it. I don't think they visited this palazzo, though. I recognize a few of the images of the interior, but most are new to me. Thanks!