Surprises on the Sorrentine Peninsula

a lemon orchard, daytime fireworks and Villa Cimbrone

If you have seen the black and white Netflix hit “Ripley “ you can better imagine what it was like in the mid-1960s when I first discovered the magical towns of Sorrento, Amalfi and Positano. Back then the cost for a night and dinner was about $40 at one of the nicest hotels and the bespoke fashion items and leather sandals were very inexpensive. Sixty years later my preferred mode of travel is with small luxury cruise ships.

(click on underlined words for the link to websites )

preferred mode of travel nowadays- Azamara ships

During a recent 10 day gig aboard the Azamara Pursuit as destination and enrichment speaker, I noticed somethings have changed in this paradise. During my talk previewing our stops in Amalfi and Sorrento I showed slides of a parade of cooks celebrating the patron saint of their profession in Sorrento, remarking that visitors should “expect the unexpected” when visiting the area.

a parade of cooks in Sorrento

And sure enough, the next day as our ship was anchored in front of the ancient Maritime Republic of Amalfi, we were treated to a noon-time fireworks display, part of the annual celebration of the town’s patron saint -Andrea.

Festa di Sant’Andrea in Amalfi

Sorrento’s downtown pedestrian shopping street, Via San Cesareo was a disappointment for most of my favorite shops had disappeared. The well stocked bookshop, the alimentari where I usually bought limoncello, the jewelry shop with its coral necklaces were all missing .

Even the retired mens’ club located in an ancient chapel was closed leaving only a string of repetitive tourist shops selling magnets, industrial limoncello and cheap frocks NOT made in Italy.

My disappointment evaporated after a visit to Museo Correale , the lovely house museum located in the area where the nicer hotels are located. Antiques, porcelain, art works and the famous inlaid Sorrento furniture can be admired here and the villa’s lemon orchard is a welcome resting place. Another positive discovery was the Giardini di Cataldo, a family business not far from the Museum, run by the second and third generations of the Esposito family.

Father and daughter of Giardini di Cataldo, Sorrento

Here under the shade of the lemon trees and protective rattan coverings visitors can enjoy respite from the heat, learn about local food with a cooking class and taste the area’s world famous liquori and sweets.

Another delightful garden with a long history was the destination of two new friends, Doug and Lory-Lynn Schinkel, a lovely Canadian couple who travel with carry-ons instead of huge suitcases. They set off early to make an independent excursion by local bus to the hilltop town of Ravello to visit Villa Cimbrone. If I was still in my 20s I would have definitely joined them to finally enjoy this stunning -but difficult to arrive to - location along the Sorrento peninsula.

Villa Cimbrone, photos by Doug and Lori

Coming next week: Delighted in Taranto, Disappointed in Palermo