Going to Rome for Holy Year ?

tips, Vatican curiosities, papal heraldry,"cheat sheet "

In my last post I promised to share some tips learned over the many years I lived in the shadow of Michelangelo’s dome. Most people gain their knowledge by studying guidebooks -like the ones I have written over the past 40 years, but some little details from those who have “been there, done that” are always welcome.

The Baldacchino and St. Peter, photo by Roloff Beny (“Odyssey, mirror of the Mediterranean” 1981). Stand in this spot when the afternoon light streams through that alabaster window - it is a magical experience you will not forget.

Vatican City State may be physically a part of Italy but it has different laws, a police force and even an historic military force -the Swiss Guards, natives of the Swiss cantons, who swear an oath of allegiance to protect the reigning pope. The new recruits are sworn in during a beautiful ceremony -by invitation only - each May 5th in a courtyard inside the Vatican walls. They guard the various entrances to the Vatican State and wear colorful uniforms some say were designed by Raphael. (click on the underlined links to learn more)

In past centuries other military groups and volunteers helped protect the papal states. There was even a papal navy and this miniature bronze ship (1621) of the Galleon fountain in the Vatican gardens is a reminder. Photo -a gift of the late Roloff Beny.

When a new pope is elected, he chooses a name and a coat-of-arms (stemma papale) which is reproduced on stamps, coins, medals,etc. Any monuments he commissions will also carry his coat-of-arms so recognizing them will help in dating buildings, churches and monuments throughout the former Papal States.

Delisle, Carta dello Stato della Chiesa, Venezia, 1735 (my collection)

As you see from this map, the former Papal States covered a large part of the Italian peninsula up until the Risorgimento (1840s to 1870) period. The pope at that time, Pius IX, (Pio Nono) lost the regions of Lazio, Marche, Umbria, hundreds of towns,fortresses and the ports of Civitavecchia and Ancona. From then on the Vatican was no longer a temporal power, but only a spiritual kingdom set in the city of Rome.

Coat-of-arms of Pope Pius XI (Papa Ratti 1922-1939))

On February 11,1929 an agreement was written up between Italy and Vatican and signed by Benito Mussolini andCardinale Gasparri. Here is a copy of the official document which recently surfaced in my library. Note the arms on the cover of the pamphlet match that on this terracotta fragment which also turned up in the library - and I have no idea where it came from! This important agreement was celebrated with the creation of Via della Conciliazione- the wide street leading up to St. Peter’s Basilica.

For heraldry and history buffs, here is a “cheat sheet” of papal arms from Georgina Masson’s iconic “Companion Guide to Rome” (1965). The popes’ family names are given above the arms, the dates reigned and the popes’ official name are given below.How many of them do you recognize ?

A very rare book recommended for heraldry and history fans

There’s that coat-of-arms again !

Pope John Paul I’s arms -very rare to see for his was the shortest reign, barely a month! Note the papal tiara, crossed keys, and the lion, symbol of his city - Venice

and those of Pius IX -the longest reigning pope (1846-1878)

Here are the answers to the photo quiz I proposed on the previous “Preparing for Holy Year 2025” article : How many did you know? top row: Vatican Government building, Central Post Office, Vatican post boxes middle row: Vatican city state in1929, Roman sarcophagus fountain just outside Vatican walls on via Gregorio VII, the beautiful staircase of the Vatican Museums bottom row: Vatican Bank entrance, entry to the Vatican Library and Secret Archives, guard at the Porta Sant’Anna, leading to the Pass Office, the pharmacy and supermarket. There is also a gas station for Vatican employees and vehicles hidden on a hillside nearby.

As one early travel writer wrote, "Every day an American spends in Rome adds a year to his intellectual life”.

Hope these jottings help you to get ready for a visit to Rome during Holy Year - or whenever you can come. I cannot stress enough how important this is - for the more you know the more you will enjoy your time here. Whether it is only a week… a year or two…. or a lifetime.

On his first visit to Rome in 1869, Henry James crisscrossed the city on foot for about five hours “in a fever of enjoyment” and at the end of this first day wrote to his brother back in Boston, “At last-for the first time-I live!”

Below are a few more mystery photos taken in the Vatican City State -guesses, questions and comments are welcome! I cannot accept pledges or paid subscriptions for tax reasons but if you would like to purchase copies of any of my publications contact me for details. I mail out twice a week. Payment with paypal or bonifico bancario. (click on underlined link )