Among the many important sites in the Etruscan Triangle perhaps the most neglected is the necropolis of Norchia located between the towns of Viterbo and Vetralla. It has been destined to a sort of limbo since neither town has ownership or easy access.
Back in the 1850s George Dennis tramped through the wilderness to locate the forgotten tombs, but now it is finally being valorized by local archeologists and volunteers. To find out more see the association’s dedicated “Salviamo Norchia” Facebook page.
About the same time the area around Vulci was in the hands of Luciano Bonaparte (Napoleon’s brother) who had been given the title Prince of Canino and Musignano by Pope Pius VII.
The area was rife with Etruscan and later Roman sites which the Bonapartes enjoyed digging up in their search for gold coins. Many red-figure Attic vases were destroyed in this way. After the Bonapartes died the land passed to Don Alessandro Torlonia who allowed archeologist Alessandro Francois a year’s time, beginning on March 19, 1857, to continue the excavations he had begun under the Bonapartes. The Francois tomb was discovered within that year and is one of the highlights, along with the castle-museum and protected natural park of Vulci.
Each summer in the 1920s amateur archeologist, English Captain Alexander Hardcastle, moved to the cooler climate of Viterbo leaving the torrid Sicilian temperatures and the restoration of the Greek temple of Hercules in Agrigento. Today you can see an inscription on the facade of the Roman theatre at Ferento, just outside of Viterbo, in memory of his work.
Now every summer the well restored theatre fills with audiences enjoying plays and music while day time visitors can wander through the site which is well cared for by the local Archeotuscia archeology group. Their monthly calendar of treks, trips and presentations is highly recommended for anyone interested in the area’s archeology. https://www.archeotuscia.com
Blera - Pian de Vescovi necropolis
The Pian de Vescovi necropolis on the outskirts of Blera (formerly known as Bieda ) was the excavation site of a group of German archeologists until the outbreak of war in 1914 when the digs were closed down.
The archeologist king, Gustaf of Sweden, could be found each season in the 1960s in the Blera and Barbarano Romano areas with their many Etruscan sites.
Foro Cassio before restoration
In the 1990s The British School of Rome was responsible (under Keay, Millet and Johnson) for in-depth studies of the site known as Forum Cassio on a hillside near Vetralla. They discovered a huge Roman town that had been abandoned in favor of the more protected site of the present town. In the past 15 years the site and frescoed church, once an important stop on the pilgrims’ route Via Franchigena between Canterbury and Rome, has undergone various restorations and is now a popular resting place for the thousands of pilgrims who transit here between April and October.
Archeologist’s sketch of Grotta Scalina
Also French archeologists of the Ecole Francaise have made important contributions to archeology in Etruria under the supervision of Prof. Vincent Joliet. The imposing Grotta Scalina complex (hidden in a wooded glen between Vetralla and Tuscania ) was first studied about a century ago ago by Andrea Scriattoli and Rossi Danielli - here they are relaxing outside the tomb.
A recent invitation from Prof. Joliet to see the advancement of the excavations was followed by a picnic in the grounds of Villa Piatti where the archeologists were staying. Bits of Etruscan stonework (cippi ) were scattered about the villa, one of the many properties of the Piedmontese family of constructors who also built our Painted Palazzo in Vetralla.
The influence of foreign archeologists in the Etruria/Tuscia area continues. Here are some book recommendations for those interested in learning more. The heaviest book is by my neighbor Prof. Stephan Steingraber, an expert on Etruscan fresco paintings. With Prof. F. Prayon he continues to research and publish the latest findings, such as the so-called Etruscan Pyramid located near Bomarzo.
Let me know if you want more stories about the archeology of this area. There is still so much to discover!