Exploring the Etruscan Triangle

scenic day trips from Civitavecchia port

Which Italy would you rather experience: a crowded highway or train trip then waiting in long lines with other tourists ? What about a leisurely walk over cobbled streets or a drive through green hills, stopping to visit medieval hill towns ?

1700s acqueduct between Tarquinia and Vetralla

crowds of tourists in Rome (photo by guide Roberta Bernabei)

This is the choice faced by some of the 2 million+ cruise passengers docking annually at Civitavecchia, the port for Rome since pre-Roman times and starting point of the scenic Etruscan Triangle itinerary, an alternative to crowded, hot Rome.

As a travel writer resident here for 60 years and enrichment speaker for the past 18 years on luxury cruise ships, I am often asked by passengers how they should spend their day shore at Civitavecchia. Here are some intelligent alternatives now available.

A few years ago the Voicemap company in Capetown, South Africa contacted me asking me to create audio tours for the port and also the medieval city of Viterbo . These self-guided tours have been a success especially with cruise passengers since they can be purchased (for less than a coffee in America) from the Voicemap.me website, downloaded and used to explore new cities worldwide. A great solution for those who leave travel planning to the last minute!

The self-guided walking tours of Voicemap.me use GPS technology and your location to play audio automatically at exactly the right time and place and when you start moving again, playback will too. It also gives directions, making it easy to put your phone away and immerse yourself in your surroundings. Who would have believed this 10 or 20 years ago ? Certainly not me, for I dont even use a cell phone!

meeting with Pamela at Civitavecchia port

For those who want to explore the countryside and towns of Tuscia with an expert local guide its best to research and book ahead of time. A group of 4 people will save money by renting a van with driver and local guide who speaks your language perfectly. Once booked, your guide will customize your day’s exploration depending on your interests: wine tasting, archeological sites, visits to artists’ studios, etc. while giving you valuable insights on life in the area, avoiding crowds and the summer heat. My recommendation for all visitors, especially those traveling with children: don’t try to overdo it and after one museum and one church, its time for one gelato!

Ruud and a group enjoying coffee and gelato

Visitors agree that the high point of their trip is being treated to a slice of authentic local lifestyle: being invited into a private home or artist’s studio, meeting interesting people who live here and entering into their reality. You can absorb the local vibes of a new place by visiting the markets, perhaps a privately owned castle with Renaissance gardens, tasting the local specialities and learning about the area’s lore and history.

the skyline of Tarquinia

A 20 minute drive along the scenic route from the port of Civitavecchia brings to the many towered hilltown of Tarquinia, once known as Corneto, a UNESCO world heritage site and a perfect first stop on a day of leisurely exploring.

The winged horses, symbol of Tarquinia

After a visit to the magnificent Etruscan museum and the painted tombs dating from 800BC to 500BC, continue along Via Aurelia bis over the rolling green hills passing the arches of a 17th century (not Roman ) aqueduct on the way to my home town, Vetralla

which has been under the protection of the English crown since the days of Henry VIII, as this monumental plaque in the city hall testifies. The many layers of history in this area are full of surprises.

A few kilometres more and you can visit Europe’s best preserved medieval center, San Pellegrino, in Viterbo with its many ceramics laboratories, a Papal Palace and other important sites, castles, gardens, and curiosities. Copies of my books about the area are available in most local tourist offices, museums, bookshops or can be ordered directly.

One of Tuscania’s magnificent churches

From Vetralla, or Viterbo, take a beautiful winding road through woodlands to arrive back at the port, but not without first stopping for a taste of local food and to admire the historic center of Tuscania (in the past called Toscanella ) with its elegant palazzi, churches, a museum and even a privately owned restored 13th century abbey - San Giusto.

Dont miss tasting some local meats and cheeses

Thanks to multi-lingual guide Ruud Hupperts of Vetralla and Pamela Marchetti of Civitavecchia who provided some of the photos. They love to share their knowledge and their hometowns with visitors from around the world. We all agree that a visit to our area of central Italy is also about sharing and creating new friendships.

Your comments and questions are welcome.