Easter traditions in Tuscia-north of Rome
"If it rains on the palms, it won't rain on the eggs"
This old proverb describes the weather between Palm Sunday and Easter. If the weather is good you might want to head to the Viterbo/Tuscia area to discover some of the age-old Holy Week happenings and enjoy the “risveglio” of nature
trekking and exploring Etruscan sites between Vetralla and Tuscania
On Good Friday processions of great intensity take place in many towns of the Tuscia region. At Vetralla (68 kms north of Rome) there is a traditional night time procession with groups of young people interpreting the Easter story dressed as ancient Romans.
hooded penitents in a night time procession on Good Friday
In nearby Blera black-clad men and women chant laments from their ancient oral tradition as the solemn procession weaves through the narrow streets lighted only by Roman candles. At Tuscania, Orte and Bagnoregio you will see Baroque statues, barefoot hooded penitents dragging heavy chains, confraternities dressed in colored robes or even a gilded baroque sarcophagus carried through the town.
Saturday is set aside for preparing the Easter feast based on roast lamb and pizze di Pasqua. Museums and Renaissance gardens and palazzi are open for visits and concerts of sacred music are held throughout the area while Easter Sunday begins with a shared brunch of pizze di Pasqua, sliced meats and eggs, symbol of the Resurrection.
crostini antipasti on Easter Sunday
roasting lamb/agnello for Easter Sunday lunch
In Tarquinia the Resurrection Race (also called “ Il Cristo che balla” ) brings the entire town to the main piazza on Easter afternoon when the 16th century statue of Christ in glory is “bounced” through the streets accompanied by the town band and pealing church bells. The noise is multiplied by hunters who shoot off guns loaded with colorful confetti. Nine wooden crosses decked with leafy garlands - resembling Celtic crosses- are carried by trios of robed men who race uphill behind the Christ statue.
Cristo Risorto procession, Tarquinia
Lunedi dell’Angelo or Pasquetta, is traditionally the first outing of the year when the countryside, woods and nature reserves are invaded by picnickers. This year instead of lunch at Fulvio’s casaletto in the olive grove we plan to enjoy Pasquetta with friends at a picnic organized by our local music association, OperaExtravaganza. There will be a do-it-yourself barbecue enlivened with music and song in the Secret Garden just beneath my terrace and the Painted Palazzo.
In the Secret Garden for Pasquetta
part of the Painted Palazzo’s secret gardens, Vetralla
Wanted in Rome, where hundreds of my articles have been published since 1980 https://www.wantedinrome.com/news/celebrating-easter-in-rome.html has up to date info about what’s happening in Rome during Easter.
More about the local festivals and traditions outside Rome can be found in the books I’ve authored since moving here in 1993.
http://www.elegantetruria.com/book/etruria-travel-history-and-itineraries-in-central-italy/
Read the reviews and contact me to order copies of our available books directly from my website Elegant Etruria. You can also find and order our books (Ebooks and/or hard copy) from my ebay shop which specializes in vintage books in several languages. Here is the link to my ebay shop with more than 900 books. https://www.ebay.it/usr/maryjancrya_0.
Since this online magazine will be available to all readers and subscribers for free due to the complicated Italian tax laws this is a way readers can show appreciation for the weekly articles. During the summer months when I am busy giving lectures on luxury cruise ships there will be fewer newsletters.
A few of my publications
If you are taking a day trip to Viterbo and want to be independent, check out the “Stories and Secrets of Viterbo” audio guide that I created with the Voicemap company from Capetown, South Africa. I know the city inside out but Google GPS is responsible for the technology part.
https://voicemap.me/tour/viterbo/stories-and-secrets-of-viterbo .
Cruise passengers arriving in Civitavecchia port for the day especially appreciate the 40 minute self-guided tour to download on your phone https://voicemap.me/tour/civitavecchia . Its an inexpensive way to explore this beautiful and ancient port city and includes tips about where to eat, get gelato and how to visit the mysterious Raphael frescoes.
From my map collection -A very old map of Civitavecchia, the port of Rome with the fortress designed by Michelangelo
The busiest port in Italy, more than 2,5 million people pass through Civitavecchia annually.
Thanks for stopping by, we are anticipating a bit of good weather for the traditional pasquetta picnic... agnello arrosto, braciole, but no fagioli ! maybe some salad with rucola, apples, nuts. There is still a huge tray of my special lasagna in the freezer,
tuscia! what a magical place, and especially for those fagioli lovers (like me). thank you for sharing such a lovely little newsletter :)