Cooking with Fulvio

Artichokes of Nonna Agnesina

One of the reasons that fruit and vegetables taste so good in Italy is that they are eaten during their specific season. And this month the carciofi /artichoke season is under way here in central Italy with those magnificent “flowers” being consumed in a dozen ways.

risotto ai carciofi with parmigiano and saffron

In a risotto, alla romana, fritti dorati, or a frittata and here in the Painted Palazzo’s kitchen simply the way Fulvio’s nonna used to make them, “alla Vetrallese”.

Prices are usually for 4 or 5 together

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Carciofi have the place of honor in our local shop “da Elena”

Fulvio Ferri’s book “Olio e Ricordi in Cucina” is actually a book of traditional culture with simple recipes passed down through the years. What is surprising about the 50+ recipes is their simplicity and easy preparation that urges the reader to reproduce them. In all the dishes the staple ingredient is extra virgin olive oil which makes even simple bread and chicory a tasty and sophisticated lunch.

Carciofi all’Agnesina -Artichokes Agnesina style

“I learned this dish from my grandmother Agnesina who had a restaurant in Vetralla. Since we had a large family she knew how to save money on the ingredients; in fact the carciofi are neither “alla romana” or “alla giudia” but a little bit of both.”

ingredients for 4 - 4 cimaroli -the best and biggest from the top of the plant, 4 alici (anchovies ) cleaned and deboned, 2 cloves of garlic, fresh mentuccia (mint), lots of extra virgin olive oil, dry white wine

How to clean the artichokes: Take off the external leaves until the white part is visible at the base, cut the top 1/3 of the artichoke and cut the stem until the base of the artichoke so that it can stay “seated” in the pan

Immerse them immediately in a bowl of water with vinegar or lemon juice to keep them from turning black. You can also clean the stem with a knife and cut in pieces (7-8 cm) and cook them with the artichoke .

Cooking: Enlarge the “mouth” of the artichoke and put in half cloves of garlic, the fresh mint and a small anchovy ( or anchovy paste). Pour oil over the artichokes and set them in a terracotta or metal pan. The pan’s surface should be covered with oil. Set them close to each other on their bases and add water and wine in equal parts but not submerging them.

Cover the pan and cook over a low fire until the liquid begins to boil lightly. Circa 20 minutes. Move them once in a while to be sure they do not stick to the pan as they cook. They are ready when a fork easily enters the base of the artichoke. Enjoy with some white delicate wine.

stuffing the carciofo

Finished cooking !

“Spero che vi piacciano i carciofi di Nonna Agnesina”

Fulvio is offering signed copies of his bilingual recipe book to the first 25 people who sign up as annual paid subscribers. This is valid only for those with an Italian address (due to high postage costs). Annual subscribers outside Italy will receive a pdf of Mary Jane’s latest book “The Irish and English in Italy’s Risorgimento “.